Hack the pattern: The Truett-inspired Sleeveless Eleonora Dress
Photo by Christy Dawn
The romantic Truett Dress by Christy Dawn has been trending all summer, and it’s easy to see why. The contrasting bias binding and tie details highlight the design elements of the dress, making it look luxurious and unique.
The Sleeveless Eleonora Dress pattern is already a perfect base for recreating the Truett look - no pattern adjustments needed! The only detail you’ll need to add is a contrasting bias binding.
Notions and tools needed:
- Contrasting bias binding (ready-made or handmade)
- The Sleeveless Eleonora Dress pattern
Tip: Before cutting into your main fabric, make a test garment to check the placement of the underbust and waist channels.
Step 1: Making the bias tape
You’ll need a generous amount of bias tape. For example, size 34 requires just under 5 meters (about 5 1/2 yd) for the neckline, underbust, and waist. If you'd like to add decorative binding to the armholes, plan for an additional 50 cm (20”).
I prefer to make my own, but you can also use ready-made tape. See page 11 of the instructions for how to make your own.
Step 2: Pressing the bias tape
Press the raw edges of the bias tape so that they meet in the middle. The finished width of the bias tape should be about 12-13 mm (1/2”).
Step 3: Bias binding to armholes
If you want to add a decorative bias binding to the armholes, do this before attaching the neckline channel (see page 16 of the instructions). The binding won’t serve any functional purpose here (like holding elastic), but it will highlight the silhouette, just like at the neckline and waist.
Photo by @annette.sews
Step 4: Attaching the bias binding to neckline
Follow the steps in the instructions as usual, but skip the steps for sewing the buttonholes to the garment. Instead, you’ll sew them to the center of the contrasting bias binding.
You have two choices for attaching the contrasting binding:
- Option 1: Sandwich one long edge of the contrasting bias binding between the garment and the original neckline channel (pattern #7), then edgestitch the other long edge.
- Option 2: Sew the neckline channel as usual, then stitch the bias binding on top where the original channel would go.
Either way, continue steps 8 A-F to make the neckline ruffle, and skip step 8 G in the instructions.
Step 5: Attaching the bias binding to underbust
Sew the underbust channel as described on pages 18-20 of the instructions, but place the contrasting bias binding on the right side of the fabric.
Step 6: Attaching the bias binding to waist
For the waist channel, it’s easiest to attach the bias binding before sewing the skirt.
1. Open and press one folded edge of the bias tape flat.
2. Sew two buttonholes at the center of the bias binding.
3. Place the tape wrong side to right side of the garment, with the folded edge facing the neckline. Baste the lower edge in place with the waistline (remember: waist seam allowance = 1.3 cm (1/2”), bias tape seam allowance is smaller).
4. Close the bias tape into a loop, either by sewing the ends together or folding them under, as with the underbust channel.
5. Secure the upper edge by edgestitching close to the fold.
Your contrast binding hack is now finished!
Photo by @laura.demelin
Want to add more details to your garment?
Here’s some more ideas for using contrasting bias binding:
- Mix fabrics: cut your contrasting bias binding from silk or velvet against a cotton dress for a soft contrast in texture, not just color.
- Mirror the binding on the skirt panels: continue the lines of the underbust/waist down into the skirt for a tiered effect.
- Combining a contrasting binding with pleats can make for a vintage-inspired heirloom detail.
- Create a scalloped trim: press and shape the bias tape into soft scallops and stitch along the neckline or hem.
- Create bows or ties: stitch down a decorative bow at the neckline or waist using leftover binding.
- Outline the hemline: add contrasting binding all around the skirt hem to frame the dress.
- Play with width: use wider bias binding for a bold, almost ribbon-like effect, or very narrow binding for a subtle detail.
Community makes
Check out these beautiful Sleeveless Eleonora dresses from the community:
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